What’s wrong with a sandwich?

A quick rant. What’s the problem with the sandwich?

Everybody seems to be sticking the knife in.

It’s great news that sales of ‘made up’ sandwiches are on the wane. A mishmash of ‘e’ number enhanced filling, placed between slices of mushy, stodgy white bread about a week before eating doesn’t have much to recommend it. It’s truly staggering how many ’e’ numbers they can fit in a sandwich.

But that doesn’t mean there aren’t some great sandwiches there for the making. Judging from Jay Rayner and Henry Dimbleby (of heathy fast food chain Leon) on Radio 4’s Kitchen Cabinet last week the anti-sandwich movement has become a stampede. Pair this with the gluten free thing we’re not allowed to mention (out of respect to coeliacs) and you have a coalition that could well take over Europe.

My point is that just because most bought sandwiches are pretty bad, that doesn’t mean we have to rule out the whole genre. Fergus Henderson, of St Johns, took the bacon sandwich to the pearly gates of organoleptic heaven and Brindisa did the same with their ciabatta, chorizo, rocket and roast piquillo pepper combo.

There is absolutely nothing wrong with a good burger and I’m not ashamed to admit to a soft spot for Riverford ham and Tracklements English mustard (Colman’s is a bit strong so you can’t give it a good slathering – and don’t spare the butter). It’s as much to do with texture as taste so add a bit of crunch with lightly toasted bread, salad leaves etc and don’t forget the bread is a moving part and will need oiling.

I’m sure Messrs Rayner and Dimbleby would exclude various pita and kebab concoctions from there general condemnation – which rather proves the point that they’re scaping the wrong goat.